goldberger



Sheet Y l' Huil: u

I. GOLDBBRGER.

(No Model.)

I. 4 Sheets-Sheet 2.

UNDERGARMENT.

Patented June A28, 1898.

(No Model.)

fwoemto'o gynaz Godbevyer www THE Noname Patins co, pnoaumc, WASHINGTON, n, c.

(Nvo Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 3.

UNDERGARMENT.

No. 808,202. Patented Julie' 28,1898.

@Mum/vtm Tn: Nonms PETERS co, Pnorouno wAswNcn-ou. n4 cy 4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

(No Modell) I. GOLDBERGER.

UNDERGARMENT.

Patented June 28,1898.

M. w ha@ .me Nonms Puras co. Fumo-mmc WASHINGTDN. u. c.

'iinrrnn rnfrns IGNATZ GOLDBERGER,

oF CLEVELAND, omo.

UNDfERG'AnMEN-r.

SPECIFICATION forming par@ of Letters patent No. 606,202, date Vrune es, i898.'

Application iiled July l 3, 1 8 96 To @ZZ whom t may concern,-

Be it known that I, IGNATZGOLDBERGER, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of the city of Cleveland, in the county offCnyahoga and State of Ohio, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Undergarments, of which the following is a specification. y' v -My invention relates to improvements in wearingapparel, preferably made of knit ribbed fabric and in the form of combinationsuits, undervests, or vest anddrawers in one structure. Y A

One object of my invention is to make in a garment 'of solid knit body Aan opening through which the bodyr may pass with ease and without discomfort to the wearer, and to this end I employ a tapered'chest-iap and two complementary f shaped shoulder flaps with inverted V -shaped openingv between them, so that when thrown open for the body'A to enter they form such a large opening as to render putting on and off very easy,` and when buttoned they will not "puckei" orxcause discomfort over the chest, the garment over the chest having the same elasticity as the lowerl part at the waist. Moreover, there is no inelastic stay to hurt the wearer or to feel tight over the chest. y l Y A further advantage accrues from the fact that the garment can beopened for nursing with the greatest ease and comfort to the wearer by simply nnbuttoning the lower buttons, and the upper vpart of the lchest and shoulder will always be covered and the breast alone exposed when nursing the child. A further advantage arises from the fact that there are no buttons under the corset to cause discomfort to the wearer.I The lower buttons of my garment only reach to the upper part of the corset and that on either side of the p chest and where the corset is generally made Serial No. 598,991. (No model.)

For the manufacture of this improved combination-suit I employ a tubularblank or piece of cloth that isf knit on a circular-knitting machine, the length of which is about ten inches longer'than for anfordinary-made suit, having its tubular'body free' from any seams audits two ends being open.- One ply of said tubular blank has a central vertical cut extending downward from 'the' upper edge thereof. The said plyis'then transversely cnt from the lower end of said vertical out to the sides of the blank andthe 'material so cut .folded outward. l `Fromthe intersection of the vertical 'cut`andfthe-transverse cuts downwardly and outwardlyextending diagonal cuts are made in the saidpl'y, land these diagonal cuts intersect"upwardly and out-` wardly inclined transverse cuts extending to the sides of the tubularlolank,A` and the material so cut is folded'outwardly', and certain waste material iscutffro'ni the folds so made, whereby the shoulder-and? chestf'aps and front arm gussets` are p'formed: garment made in this wayjwill be a-relief to all wearers and especially' to stout`peop`le,"l there being no seam to press them, andthearmholes being made of.V eXtra size without an extra piece of cloth set inand therefore permitting an easy and free movement forthe chest.

My invention alsocomprises other features of constructionr hereinafter'described and claimed.

In order that my inventionlinayzbe fully understood, I will proceed t'describe it with reference to the accompanying "drawings, in which- L f Figure l is avfront view offinyfimproved combination-suit or L union "garment: Fig. 2 is a back view thereof. Figf is afront View of a sleeve therefor havingin'dicated in dotted line a cuttin'gline'to producefalrear armgusset. Fig. 4r is a similar view showing the rear arm-gusset. Fig. 5 is a front View of the reinforce abdominal protecting-shield. 6 is a detail view showing the flaps for closing the seat-opening. Fig. 7 is a front view of an undervest, showing a 'slight` modification in the construction of the upper part of the garment.

the upper part of the garment is open. Fig. 9 is afront view of a flat tubularblank, showing the lines on which it is cut to produce a Fig. Sisasimilarviewinwhich combination-suit or union garment. Fig. 10 is a front view showing another step in the formation of the suit or garment.

1 represents the body of the garment, preferably formed on a circular-knitting machine, so as to make it seamless on the sides and with open top and bottom. The front ply of the body portion of the garment thus formed is cut open vertically and transversely at the upper end and lapped over the sides, so as to make this portion of the increased Width and single thickness. and leaving the upper severed pieces 2 attached to the back, as shown in Fig. 1, to form the shoulder-flaps. By this means the garment is left seamless on the shoulder. Tapering front ap 3 is formed onto the front portion of thebody in substantially the manner shown in Fig. 1 and eX- tending up in front of the chest. rThe iiap is provided with buttons 4, and the shoulderaps 2 are provided on their edges at 5 with buttonholes 6. Vhen the shoulder-flaps are folded forward over the shoulder, these edges 5 will button on the front flap 3 and form a detachable connection with the front of the garment. The position of this attachment is important, as it will be found to be out of reach of the corset-steels and only under the soft portion of the corset, so that pressure upon the buttons is rendered impossible.'

The sleeves are formed in any suitable manner, as by knitting7 and, as shown in Fig. 3, the front side of the sleeve 7 is first cut on the bias, (indicated by dotted lines oc L1/,) and the triangular piece thus severed is opened out to form the rear arm-gusset 7 (see Fig. 4) and increase the attaching base of the sleeve, at the same time leaving the inclined edge 7b to the front of the sleeve. The sleeve is then sewed or otherwise attached to the back of the garment, as shown at .8, Fig. 2. The tapering outer edges 9 and 17 of the shoulder-flaps 2 are then secured to the bias edges 7b and 7 ofl the sleeves, and this portion vof the garment-is complete.

10 represents a reinforce protecting-shield, which is secured to the portion of the garment which covers the abdomen and makes a double thickness there, as shown in Figs. 1 and 5.

For closing the seat-opening l employ two symmetrically-formed closing-flaps 11, having extensions 111 (see Fig. 6) and secured to lthe respective sides of the seat-opening, with the extensions located in front of and extending from beneath the crotch, by sewing along the edges 1 3 and overlapping each other, leaving the free edges 12 open. This form of 'seatcovering will prevent the garmcntppenin g by any movement of the wearer and will materially add to the warmth.

- 14 represents the lower closed ends of the legs, which go beneath the heels, and 15 are lateral openings for the projection of the foot beyond the instep. A pair of strings 16 may be employed for the purpose of tying the openings tightly around theankles.

Fig. 9 is a view of a tubular blank or piece of cloth as taken from a frame of a knittingmachine and shows it folded fiat. The lines show where the same is cut to obtain the width to form the shoulder-naps and continuous arm-gussets, the legs, and the feet-openings. Fig. 10 is a view thereof and shows the upper front part of the cloth opened out and the waste portions indicated in dotted lines. The length of the tubular blank or piece of cloth used is about ten inches longer than for an ordinary-made suit, having its tubular body free from any seams and its two ends open. At the end ywhich is used for the upper part of the garment on the front side the cloth is cut open in the center, ruiming vertically for about ten inches in length, single or upper thickness, and then cut from the end of the vertical line transversely to the side edges. The two parts thus formed are lapped down and over, each to the respective sides, forming one piece of cloth about ten inches long and twice as wide as the diameter of the tubular body, but only of single thickness,which is lapped forward to the front part to form the shoulder-flaps and continuous arm-gussets, which are cut to their respective shapes, whereby the garment is made seamless at the shoulders and front part of the armholes. The parts indicated by dotted lines are waste portions.

A garment constructed as above set forth will be found to embody all the advantages described in the statement of invention.

Substantially all the advantages of the garment above described will be found to exist in the form disclosed by Figs. 7 and 8, wherein the front chest-Hap 3a differs from the chestn flap 3 in that the upper slantin g sides begin approximatelyv at the sides of the garment and the shoulder-flaps 21 are made correspondingly different. Said flaps also differ in the peculiar form of their lower edges 17. I therefore desire it understood that I do not limit myself to the precise forms of the several parts, as it is obvious that these may be modified as shown in Figs. 7 and 8 o'r in other particulars without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, the following is what I claim as new therein and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. An undergarment constructed from a tubular blank of suitable material, one ply of the upper portion of which is cut on a dividing longitudinal line, and on a transverse line at the inner end of the longitudinal line, to produce shoulder-flaps which are folded inwardly, the said ply being also cut inwardly on diverging lines from the center of the transverse line to produce an upwardly-tapering chest-flap and from the inner ends of the diverging lines outwardly of the blank to produce breast-openings which are closed by said shoulder-naps; substantially as described.

2. An undergarment constructed from a tubular blank of suitable material with shoulder-flaps and gussets integral with the shoul- IOO IIO

der-flaps extending outward beyond the sides, and sleeves formed with openingsrwhich receive the said gussets; substantially as described.

3. An underga-rinent havinga downwardlyprojecting shoulder-flap extending beyond the body portion to provide a front arm-gusset portion, and a sleeve having a bias cut to provide a rear arm-gusset portion; the armgusset portions being secured together at their lower edges, the front arm-gusset portion being secured to the sleeve at its upper edge, and the rear arrngusset portion being secured to the body portion; substantially as described.

4. An undergarnient having a body portion and a ch est-openin g extending across the body portion, an upwardly-projecting central front chestiiap and downwardly-projecting shoulder-flaps extending beyond the body portion to provide front arm-gusset portions, and sleeves having bias-cut portions formed from the front thickness to provide rear arm-gusset portions; the lower edges of the arm-gusset portions being secured together; the upper edges of the front arm-gusset portions being secured to the sleeves, and inner edges of the rear ar1n-gusset portions being secured to the body portion; substantially as described.

5. An und ergarrnent having a seat-opening, and symmetrically-formed overlapping closing-flaps having extensions and secured to the respective sides of the seat-opening with the extensions extending from beneath the crotch and secured in front of the garment; substantially as described.

IGNATZ GOLDBERGER. Vitnesses:

H. O. JONES, S. P. BALDWIN. 

